How I Choose Fabric (and Why Some Prints Never Make It)
Choosing fabric for children’s clothing isn’t just about how it looks. At Tutti Frutti, I choose fabrics based on ethics, wearability, and how they work in real life - from organic cotton jerseys printed just for me, to ethically sourced deadstock. Here’s how I decide which prints make it into the shop, and why so many don’t.

Organic cotton jersey fabric used for Tutti Frutti children’s clothing
People ask me all the time how I choose the fabrics I use for Tutti Frutti.
Why this print? Why those colours? Why not something more “on trend”?
The honest answer is that choosing fabric is one of the slowest parts of what I do - and most options never make it past that stage.
Where my fabrics come from

My fabrics usually come from two places.
Some are printed just for me. These are printed in Turkey on GOTS-certified organic cotton jersey, and the designs themselves come from small businesses. A few of them are incredibly local - as close as 25 minutes from me - which I really love. It feels good keeping that part of the process small and connected.
The rest are deadstock fabrics, sourced through an ethical supplier in North London. These are fabrics that already exist but would otherwise be unused. Using deadstock allows me to work in genuinely small batches and stops perfectly good fabric being wasted.
Both routes matter to me. They solve different problems, but they fit the same values.
Ethics come first (but it’s not always straightforward)
If a fabric isn’t ethically made or ethically sourced, it’s a no.
That means deadstock, or certified organic or recycled fibres. I ask a lot of questions about factories - how things are made, who’s making them, and what the working conditions actually look like.
Because I buy in small quantities, the “ideal” fabric isn’t always available. Sometimes that means making a compromise that looks odd on paper.
For example, some of my sweatshirts use virgin polyester - not because I prefer it, but because I wanted to offer a proper range of colours across all sizes, which organic or recycled options simply didn’t provide at the time. The factories producing these fabrics are doing things properly: using solar power, harvesting rainwater, operating zero-waste systems, and paying fair wages.
All my other clothing is made by me, in small batches, here in the shop.
For me, ethics isn’t just about fibre content on a label. It’s about the bigger picture.
It also has to work in real life
As well as being ethical, the fabric has to behave itself!

It needs to wash well, hold its colour, and shrink as little as possible (there’s always some shrinkage with cotton - that’s just reality). Colour fastness is a definite non-negotiable. If a fabric fades quickly, it won’t be used.
Children wear these clothes so they need to cope with real life.
Why I say no to a lot of prints
I turn down far more prints than I say yes to.
Too much white is an immediate no - it just doesn’t do well on children's clothes!
Copyrighted or cartoon characters don’t fit what I’m trying to do.
And anything that feels novelty-led or very trend-driven usually gets ruled out quickly.
I’m not interested in prints that feel tired after one season. If it already feels dated before it’s sewn, it’s not right for Tutti Frutti.
What actually draws me to a print
Colour is usually the first thing that catches my eye.
I think about how a print will look on babies and on bigger kids, how it fits with the rest of the range, and whether it feels easy to wear rather than “too much”.
I don’t design for boys or girls. I design for children.
If a print feels like something any child could wear - and maybe pass on to a sibling - then it’s usually a good sign.
How much customers influence my choices
I trust my gut now - but I have been doing this for nearly ten years. Experience plays a big part in these decisions now.
I know what sells, what washes well, what parents come back for, and what sits on the rails for a long time. I listen to customers, but I don’t do everything I am asked for. Of course, working in small batches let me test ideas without overcommitting.
Longevity, without overthinking it
People often assume I plan prints far ahead. I don’t really - although I do try to plan a bit.

One of the best things about a small business is being able to move quickly so I don’t sit there trying to predict what will still feel right in three years’ time. Instead, I focus on wearability. If something works across seasons, across ages, and across the rest of the range, it tends to last naturally.
Christmas is the only exception - and even then I try to go with more winter themed prints than something that can really only be worn for the festive season. I tried to introduce some Christmas jumper this year - and they didn't do as well as hoped so I won't be doing Christmas specific clothing again!
Colour choices, explained simply
Colour matters a lot - but again, I keep it practical.
I choose colours that work all year round, that mix well with the sweatshirts I already stock, and that look good across different styles. I want pieces to work together without needing too much thought.
If a colour or print only works once, in one outfit, I might rethink it.
How this has changed over time
When I first started Tutti Frutti, I used almost any bright stretch fabric I could get hold of. At the time, that made sense - I was learning, experimenting, and finding my feet.
Over time, my approach has become much more intentional. About ethics, sourcing, scale, and what actually fits the brand. I wrote more about that shift in my post Why I Stopped Making Mermaid & Unicorn Leggings.
That change wasn’t about being more serious. It was about being more considered.
When a print doesn’t work
Sometimes I take a risk and it doesn’t pay off.
The lighter-coloured town print was one of those. I liked it and thought something more muted would appeal to more people. It didn't work. It didn’t sell. That happens.
Working in small batches means I can learn from those moments without it becoming a big problem. Every “miss” feeds into better decisions next time.
So… why this print?
If someone asked me in the shop, I'd probably say:
Because it’s child-friendly, neutral, and works for everyone - not boys or girls. Just kids.
And that’s really the heart of how I choose everything.
You can see the current prints I’m working with in the Grow with Me Leggings section on the website
